International credit/debit card

One of the main concern when planning your trip abroad, be it for a holiday or a longer trip around parts of the world, is access to money.

When budgeting for my trip I had to ask myself how much it would cost me in bank charges and other exchange rate fees, turns out it is quite a lot.

I am banking with HSBC in the UK on a standard account and here is a quick summary of the bank fees with a simulation of how much it could cost.

Payment Withdrawals
Fees 2.75% Non-Sterling transaction fee 2.75% Non-Sterling transaction fee + Cash Fee 2% (Minimum £1.75, maximum £5.00)
£50 £1.375 £1.375 + £1.75 =  £3.125
£200 £5.5 £5.5 + £5 = £10.5

It becomes quickly obvious that bank fees cost a fortune and that I would rather spend it somewhere else, especially knowing that most countries I have visited don’t accept payment as an option and cash is mainly prevalent, in some countries like Thailand there is a local bank fee, about £3 for every withdrawal at every cash machine and most of the time there is a limit of £100 or £200 per withdrawal, so if you you were to withdraw £500 in Thailand, that would cost you:

5 * ( £100 +local bank fees) * HSBC bank fees  = £24.5 not too bad? well the thing is at the end, you ll have to subtract the £3 * 5 that local bank would charge you.

So actually in order to withdraw £500, you are actually withdrawing £515, then on the top of that you will have to pay £24.5 – total cost just to get your money £39.5 – that is a few nights in a hostel or a meal for 2 in some decent restaurant.

Extrapolate that on a year of travelling and that becomes a full month backpacking – no kidding!

So before I started to worry about how much my trip would cost me, I started to worry about how much accessing my money would cost me, then with a bit research I found that Halifax does this product called Clarity, it is a credit card that allows you to pay and withdraw abroad at literally no cost ( as long as you transfer the money back quickly).

So far I haven’t heard of any other similar product, neither in the UK or France but this has  been good as travelling without having to worry about bank fees is definitely plus.

One extra tip: You should always travel with 2 different types of card, for the occasion where the Master Card from Halifax wouldn’t work, then I was able to use my Visa from HSBC, it comes quite handy if you lose one of them.

I wouldn’t recommend you use the Clarity card for your day to day expenses in the UK as it could cost you, but it is very convenient when I travel abroad.

I reckon I have saved as much as £1500 on bank fees throughout my trip, and that is worth about 2 months of travelling and a lot more in dreams……

 

 

Thailand – Ayutthaya and Koh Samet

25/05/2014 – GMT+7, +34C

Ayutthaya

On my way back from Chiang Rai, I spent one day visiting the old capital of Thailand – Ayutthaya (UNESCO World Heritage Centre).
The Historic City of Ayutthaya, located 60Km north of Bangkok, founded in 1350, was the second capital of the Siamese Kingdom. Ayutthaya was strategically located on an island surrounded by three rivers connecting the city to the sea. This site was chosen because it was located above the Gulf of Siam, thus preventing attack of the city by the sea.
The city was attacked by the Burmese army in 1767 who burned the city to the ground and forced the inhabitants to abandon the city. The city was never rebuilt in the same location and is now an archaeological ruin.
After that, a new city, Bangkok, was built to replace the defunct capital – the new capital was built to preserve much of the original architecture of Ayutthaya, as a result, in Thai, the official name for the new capital of Bangkok retains “Ayutthaya” as part of its formal title.

The Thai are very happy explaining their culture and history but I could feel that they still hold very strong feeling against Burmese and the way the destroyed their country.

Ayutthaya – Ruins
Ayutthaya - Ruins

Ayutthaya - Ruins

Elephants tour on the ruins
Ayutthaya - Elephants tour on the ruins

The new city has a lot of ornaments representing the commemorating the old days
Lamppost decorated with elephants
Ayutthaya - Lamp post

Ayutthaya Temple
Ayutthaya - Temple

When we arrived at the temple, they were changing the buddha’s dress. In Thailand for every season there is a dress for Buddha, in that one they change the dress everyday. It can be a formal ceremony or more often informal, where people sit on the floor through a prayer after having made a donation and being handed a piece of the old outfit, as soon as the prayer is done, one throw the piece of clothing over his shoulder toward the Buddha status in order to be protected for the entire season.

Buddha’s new dress – The long piece of fabric being pulled inside the temple
The long piece of fabric being pulled inside the temple

Buddha’s new dress and Man throwing piece of old dress over his shoulder
Buddha's new dress and Man throwing piece of old dress over his shoulder

While roaming through the floating market, I have noticed this very unusual water powered boat, probably due to the shallow depth of the water.
Water powered boat

Koh Samet

The following week we decided to go away from the main cities as most of the places were shut due to the curfew(at the time I left Thailand, the soldiers were still in control of the country and still running the country as I am writting this blog), we headed toward a small island, Koh Samet, mostly known from Thai therefore very quiet and not populated with foreign tourists.

Koh Samet – on the boat
Koh Samet - on the boat

The island is about 5km long, we rented a scooter for 3 days so we could move around easily

Koh Samet – lagoon
Thailand doesn’t have the most blue water when it comes to the colour of the sea, however I have found that Thai are very respectful of their country and places are usually kept clean and free of garbage.
Koh Samet - lagoon

At night, one can observe the green lights at the horizon, they are used for squid fishing as they are attracted by green light.
Koh Samet - green light for squid fishing

We went to see a fire show on the beach on our last night on the island. The show, quite famous, was performed by Cambodians and lasted for about 1 hour – very impressive to see what those guys can do
Koh Samet - Fire show

You can watch the (unedited) show on Youtube by clicking the image above

Next:Malaysia

Thailand – Chiang Rai

20/05/2014 – GMT+7, +32C

Chiang Rai is located 860 km north of Thailand and about 200 km northeast of Chiang Mai, it was conquered by Burma and remained for several hundred years under Burmese influence, it is not until 1933 that it became part of Thailand (know at the time as Siam). Chiang Rai, by its location, is regularly the theatre of earthquake. While I was there we experienced a small one that didn’t cause any damage, however the week before there was an earthquake with a magnitude 7 that destroyed landmarks and cracked open roads – one of the famous landmark, The White Temple, was badly damaged and declared unsafe for visiting.

The Chiang Rai region has a lot to offer in term of landmarks, from hot springs to temple and beautiful scenery. We went on a tour, where a guide drove us around, the guy was very friendly and even bought us pineapple.

Chiang Rai clock
There is a light show at night (7pm and 8pm) and the clock changes colour accompanied with some music.

Chiang Rai clock daytime Chiang Rai clock nighttime
Clock daytime Clock nighttime

Wat Rong Khun (White Temple)

The temple was designed in 1997 and is quite surprising due to its unusual artifacts, mainly skulls
Chiang Rai - Wat Rong Khun (White Temple)
Unfortunately, we couldn’t enter the temple, following the earthquake on the 5th of May 2014, the temple was shut indefinitely, however On May 7 morning after an engineering expert team inspected and confirmed that all building structures in the temple were unharmed by the quake, Chalermchai(the designer) announced that he would rebuild the temple back to its original beauty in two years and promised to devote his life for the work

Wat Rong Khun – hands in the air
Chiang Rai - Wat Rong Khun hands in the air

Wat Rong Khun – traffic cone mounted with a skull
Chiang Rai - Wat Rong Khun traffic cone mounted with a skull

We then moved to another unique place – Baan Dam museum (The black house).

The museum exposes items that are mainly made from dead animals from furniture to wall decoration – everything is up for sale!

One of the Black house
Baan Dam

Table cover made of crocodile skin
Baan Dam - Crocodile table clothes

Even the toilets are unusual
Baan Dam - toilets

On the site there is a couple of Boa constrictor freely wandering around, that one looks well fed but still, I am not taking any chances!
Baan Dam - Boa constrictor

Thereafter, our guide drive us up north towards the Golden Triangle – where the 3 countries, Burma, Laos and Thailand have jointed borders, most famously knows for its poppy production transformed into opium and heroin and all the trafficking that goes with it.

Golden Triangle – I am standing Thailand, Burma is on the left and Laos on the right.
Golden Triangle

City of Tachileik in Burma in my back – I am standing in Mae Sai, Thailand.
Tachileik in Burma

Scorpion facing Burma to protect Thailand from Burmese invasions
Scorpion in Mae Sai facing Burma

Opium Pipes in the museum of opium
Opium Pipes in the museum of opium

Weights used to weigh opium
Opium weights in the museum of opium

Elephants – unfortunately Thailand has developed a massive tourist attraction around elephants, turning them into slave labourer. Tourists (un)knowingly contributing to their misery, from chain reproduction to physical arm, the Mahout (elephant conductor) uses a hook, planting it into the flesh to command the beast. Since I have started traveling, there is always a question about what is acceptable and detrimental to the local flora.

The only elephant I have mounted was therefore a concrete statue.
Standing on elephants statue

Next:Koh Samet and The city of Ayutthaya, old capital of Siam(Thailand)

Thailand – Chiang Mai

15/05/2014 – GMT+7, +32C

Chiang Mai is located 700 km north of Thailand and has +300 temples. Moreover, Chiang Mai is famous for its Khao Soi, local egg noodle curry dish, so famous that even the King went there to eat it in the best restaurant.

Chiang Mai view from Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep
Chiang Mai view from Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep

Train station
Chiang Mai train station

The city used to be surrounded by a wall to prevent from Burmese (Myanmar) invasion and remains are still visible around the city.
Wall
Wall

The international Thai boxing tournament was taking place while I was staying there and we went to see a fight.
Thai boxing – Thai Vs Canadian (Thai won by KO)
Thai boxing

Ping River
Ping river

I have noticed that in Asia, people can fix anything, that is what the mechanic who repaired a puncture on my scooter was working on, on his spare time
Tiller (motoculteur) Bike
Tiller Bike

Chiang Mai is located next to a mountain with a temple overlooking the city
Wat Doi Suthep
Wat Doi Suthep

Wat Chedi Luang
Wat Chedi Luang

I have also experienced an overnight train, on my way back to Bangkok – health and safety regulations are quite different from what I am used to and the train was riding with all the doors and windows open
Train ride to Bangkok

Next:Chang Rai

Thailand – Bangkok

19/04/2014 – GMT+7, +28C

After bribing my way out of Cambodia (I have found out recently that when entering Cambodia, the officers purposely “forget” to stamp your passport so tourists get into trouble when leaving) and spending 12 hours on a bus, I finally arrive in Bangkok.

Bangkok view from the top
Bangkok view from the top

It seems that there are way more temples here than in any country I have visited before.

Wat Pho
Wat Pho

Lying Buddha Wat Pho
Lying buddha wat Pho

Wee man
Wee man Wat Arun

Wat Arun
Wat Arun

My favourite Thai food – Papaya salad
PApaya salad

Grand palace
Grand Palace

Grand Palace
Grand Palace

During my stay in Bangkok, there were a lot of protests, Yellow shirt Vs Red shirts, the endless argument between royalists and democrats that have so far resulted in the country witnessing 18 coup d’états in the last 60 years. Tourism makes a large contribution to Thailand’s economy (about 6% of GDP) therefore the tourist area were relatively unaffected by the coup, the military imposed a curfew to the locals every night from 10pm to 5am and soldiers could be seen at every corner of the city, tourists weren’t subjected to it.
At the time this happened, I was staying in a Thai family, when they heard the news about the coup, they decided to throw a party to celebrate and that same night we were cheering to a “Happy coup” – quite an experience!

When I arrived in Thailand, I met some locals that nicely welcome me to their house, so I got the chance to experience Thailand in a less touristic way.

PeeMai – the 5 years old niece
Pee Mai

Thai names have a meaning, at birth, the parents chose what the name will mean and is not an actual translation of the word, PeeMai (pronounce B-mY) means Happy new year.

Wat Traimit
Wat Traimit

The golden statue inside the temple was originally housed in Ayutthaya, Thailand’s old capital, is made entirely of gold (5.5 tons) and worth USD 250 millions. The story goes that during Burmese invasion, it was plastered and went unnoticed when the Burmese army was looting the country.
It was then moved after Bangkok became the new capital of Thailand.
Wat Traimit – Golden Buddha
Wat Traimit - Golden Buddha

The 5th of May was a public bank holiday as Thailand (Yellow shirts) was celebrating the coronation of the king. Bangkok was the host of many events.
Celebration day of King Rama IX
King's day

Bangkok at night
Bangkok at night

Next destination: Chaing Mai

Cambodia – Sihanoukville and Siem Reap

03/04/2014 – GMT+7, +33C

Moving further to the west coast, we are now going to a very touristy place – Sihanoukville!
The place is well know for crazy parties on the beach, unfortunately there is not much to see over there, so we will stay there for a few days, chill out and try to do some diving.

First thing when we arrive is to go to the more quiet Otres beach, less frequented by backpackers as more expensive, we check in a bungalow for a few nights, right by the sea.
Otres beach bungalow

After a couple of days we decide to go diving on Koh Rong island, a 2 hours boat trip from Sihanoukville, the Open Water Course last for 3 days and then we will be certified(should) divers. The island it self is quite nice, no fresh water, no internet and electricity only at night from generator.

Koh Rong island
Koh Rong island

The diving experience is great, quite a lot to learn before we can get into the water but well worth the effort. We are quite luckily as our instructors is very professional (which doesn’t seem to be the case of others…) and we are only 2 in our group compare to the others.

Sunset on Koh Rong island
Sunset on Koh Rong island

At the end of the 3 days we passed the exam successfully and are now certified divers. Back to Sihanoukville, I meet my friend Antoine and his girlfriend Katarina, who have been travelling since October 2013 starting from South America. Right on time to celebrate my birthday!

Antoine and Kat
Antoine and Kat

Khmer new year (that will be my fourth new year since January 2014) is approaching and it is now time to go to Siem Reap, where there are beautiful UNESCO listed temples (one of them was the setting of the Tomb raider movie – Ta Prohm

The most famous and biggest temple being Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat

We get to spend 1 day on the temple during the festivities of Khmer new year, the locals are playing some games and are rather keen to invite us. We stay past dusk and get to see some of the temples at night.

Bayon wat, nicely lit at night
Bayon Wat

All together I have spent around 10 days in Siem Reap, longer than expected as during the new year it was difficult to move around. I had to sell my motorbike as I can’t take it to Thailand and re-discover the (weird) feeling of being a pedestrian…

Next destination: Bangkok!

Cambodia – Kampot

25/03/2014 – GMT+7, +38C

After spending a few days in Phnom Penh, I move toward the south to a small town called Kampot .

Kampot is very quite and nice to spend a fews days chilling out. There is no much to see in the city itself but the surrounding area offers some nice sightseeing. It is by far the warmest I have been, the heat is so intense that we can only do a couple of things each day as we feel exhausted.

Kampot estuary
Kampot on the estuary

Kampot dirt roads
Kampot dirt road

Kampot temple on fish island
Kampot temple on fish island

In the temple I meet 3 kids that start following me and pausing so I can take pictures of them
Kids playing on the temple
Kids playing on the temple

Here the cows are free to wander to find food (not much to eat on the ground, they are all very skinny)

Cow in a rice field

Trying some homedade lentils juice – refreshing but very sweet
Lentils juice

Sunset from the roof terrace of the hostel

The next day we are going to the Bokor National Park, once a French resort that was built to beat the heat while Cambodia was under French ruling. It is a 40km drive out of Kampot, when we get to the top of the mountain, it is about 25 degree Celsius, feels quite cold compared to the +38C in the city.
There even is some fog.

Fog in Bokor National Park

Budha in Bokor National Park

Waterfall and Monks in Bokor National Park

On the way back we eat some local food – Chicken noodle soup with freshly squeezed sugar cane juice

We then drive around in the country side where we end up in a banana and jackfruit field
Banana tree

Jackfruit

On our last day, we go on a boat cruise to see the sunset

Cambodia – Phnom Penh

20/03/2014 – GMT+7, +38C

Crossing the Vietnamese border was a bit of a joke, I have been told that you couldn’t take the motorbike across the border nut turns out it is almost easier than just crossing it on foot. After getting my Cambodian visa on the other side, here I am driving on the road – in the last 2 years the Cambodian government has spent a lot of money making road to connect tourists places and the first thing I noticed is that it is pretty to get around.

On the road – temple

Temple on the road to Phom Penh

Cambodia has a huge history of invasion and wars – the latest being the Khmer Rouge who decimated a quarter of the population (3 Million) in the genocide that took place between 1975 to 1979.

Phom Penh is a booming city and looks very similar to any major capital I have visited in Asia
Phom Penh - roundabout

The following day I am visiting the killing fields, containing around 500 of the 20,000 mass graves in this country – the Cambodian government highly encourage tourists to visits these places as a symbol of remembrance.
The median age here is 24 years old (France is 39. UK is 40), it is very obvious while touring the country that the population is very young and there are not many elderly.

Killing fields

Phom Penh - Killing fields

Followed by the infamous S21 prison – it used to be a high school that was turn into a torture centre, located right in the middle of Phnom Penh
S21 – Cells
S21 cells
S21 – water boarding
S21 water board

After the fall of the Khmer Rouge, the country had no institution, no education, religion or medical institution left. Everything had to be rebuilt from scratch.

Puppies in the middle of the killing fields
Puppy in the killing fields

The city has a few landmarks that are less depressing, such as:

Royal Palace
Royal Palace

Wat Phnom temple
Wat Phnom temple

also the people here are very friendly and very nice

After 4 days in Phnom Penh I move south, direction Kampot